Malta: A Destination for Backpackers, History Lovers, Cruisers, and Sun Worshippers.

Overlooking the bay off Comino Island

I’ve been to Malta twice now– once on a budget trip with friends, and the second time on a luxury cruise with my grandfather. Both experiences were incredible, although sipping champagne in a fancy bathrobe on my balcony while overlooking Valletta was definitely a once-in-a-lifetime moment I’ll never forget. (Thanks, Pop!)

Just a regular day for me.

Malta is an up-and-coming travel destination, but for now, it’s not overrun by tourists. Unlike many hot Europe destinations, there are a lot of the things to see and do that don’t require a ticket! For the ones that do, they’re unlikely to sell out before you show up (looking at you, Sistine Chapel).

On my first visit, we stayed in Sliema, which is on the modern side of things in relation to the rest of the island. Sliema sits across the bay from the picturesque Valletta. Rentals and restaurants are cheaper here, and you get the added bonus of looking at the city throughout your stay. Our Airbnb was just a quick walk away from where the ferry leaves for Valletta, and around the block from a line of shops and restaurants. The ferry to Valletta goes all day and is very affordable, however you will want to arrive early to make sure you get a good seat (or any seat, if you are visiting during the late spring-summer).

Very important pro-tip: This is going to sound weird to some, but the one thing I wish I knew about visiting Malta was how aggressive the mosquitos are. Seriously, bring bug spray and pray. I won’t even tell you the total amount I had by the time I left the first time I visited. (My travel companions can tell you the number because I updated them every time I got a new one. I’m a delight, really.) The good news is that the local pharmacies in town all sell bug spray at a reasonable (for Europe) price.

Getting artsy on the cliffs on the south side of the island. This was taken near the Dingli Cliffs.

The Republic of Malta has been inhabited since at least 5900 BC. Due to its strategic location in the middle of the Mediterranean, the country has been occupied or conquered several times over the course of its existence. From the Phoenicians in 1000BC, to the Arabs during the Middle Ages, all the way through to becoming a British colony in the 1800s and key air base in World War II (just to name a few), this tiny island has played a key role throughout history.

You can see all of the different layers of history as you travel around the island (and its sister island, Gozo). It’s there in the street signs, the building style, the food, and the people. I know it’s cliché to say there’s something for everyone, but hear me out. There is LITERALLY something for everyone. The island is small but mighty, with enough sites and experiences to keep any tourist happy. Just don’t be scared to try the rabbit!

Below, I’ve outlined a (very) brief list of top things to do while visiting Malta. It was hard to narrow it down, so there is much more than what you see here. But this is a great jumping off point! I’d easily be able to fill an entire book with info on Malta’s historically significant sites, hiking trails, museums, and diving spots.

Ġgantija Temples

Malta is home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including temples such as Ggantija, a Neolithic compound located on Gozo Island (just north of the mainland of Malta). Built in 3600 B.C., the Ggantija Temples were named so because the locals believed the enormous temples were built by giants. Over thousands of years, the temples have stayed fairly well-preserved (although adventuring Brits in the late 1800s were less than gentle with their excavation). The museum onsite houses many of the artifacts discovered during countless excavations. The museum also offers great info on the temple’s (re)discovery. Make sure to take time to check it out if you find yourself here!

A temple built by giants, some graffiti written by idiots.

Bonus: There are 5 other temple sites in Malta that are included under the UNESCO umbrella (Ħaġar Qim, Mnajdra, Tarxien, Ta’ Ħaġrat, and Skorba), some dating back further than Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid. Each of these temples offer a truly incredible site. The ingenuity and craftsmanship of these prehistoric people are fully on display, and careful study of each of these sites have given us amazing insight into how the ancient people lived, worked, and ate.

Mollie leads, and sometimes I follow.

Bonus-bonus: Not interested in visiting a temple but still want a taste of history? Keep an eye out while hiking- there are Bronze-Age dolmans hidden amongst the cliff sides.

Bonus-bonus-bonus: (Can you tell I’m struggling to leave stuff out? It’s all spectacular.) Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum (located on the main island of Malta) is an underground, three-story complex filled with chambers and passageways and almost impeccably preserved. The structure was built around 3000 B.C., and is only open to a minimal amount of visitors per day (this is one of the few excursions that will require you to book in advance). Visiting this structure is my #1 reason to go back to Malta for a 3rd time. It’s Malta’s 2nd UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Mdina (or Medina for the non-locals)

Sansa Stark, eat your heart out.

Although there are obvious signs of ancient inhabitants scattered around the Maltese countryside, the cities themselves are also a testament to the island’s long history. Mdina, or the Silent City, was Malta’s capital for thousands of years (before being replaced by Valletta). It was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, before being turned over to the Romans. Quick to change hands, Mdina fell under the Byzantine rule until the Middle Ages. After enjoying a brief jaunt in the Dark Ages, Malta came under the rule of the Hospitallers in the mid 1500s. It was during this transition that Valletta replaced Mdina as capital de Malta. All of the changes and new owners resulted in a city filled with different architecture and traditions.

I never thought I’d be that person, but look at this door! I have a million pictures of doors.

One of Mdina’s many charms is just how small it is. It is only a quick walk through the winding and narrow streets to reach either end of this ancient metropolis. For any loyal Game of Throners out there, the outer walls may look familiar. Mdina’s walls were used in Season 1 of Game of Thrones as a setting for King’s Landing. But don’t worry- you won’t find any heads on a pike lining the fortifications. Although production eventually moved entirely to Dubrovnik for the remaining seasons, it’s easy to see why Mdina worked so well.

The city is full of hidden doorknobs, inner courtyards, and capers dangling from walls. There is a maze of catacombs just outside the city, which you can also visit during a day trip to Mdina. Nods to the Order of St. John, who were responsible for the more Baroque architectural elements, can also be spotted while wandering the city.

A gentleman and a scholar, and a suit of armor (Looking good, Pop!)

Mdina itself, although built on a hill, is relatively flat. For the older traveller (or if you’re traveling with someone who might not take to hills very well), it’s the perfect place to experience the sweeping history of Malta in a tiny little microcosm. Plus, depending on when you go there, you might stumble upon a festival complete with medieval jousting and falconers.

Listen, you’re getting another door. I don’t know what else to do with these pictures.

You can easily access Mdina by a 30 minute bus ride from Valletta. Tickets run about €1-2, and the buses leave every 10 minutes. You can also rent a car and drive around the island, but remember, these streets are from medieval days, so the driving is tight. Also, parking might be tricky, as there are a limited number of cars allowed within the city walls, and yours won’t be one of them, so spots nearby fill up quick. Uber and Lyft are not available on the island. Taxis can be called, or you can download the app Bolt to request a ride.

Valletta

Very proud to say I didn’t trip down steps once this trip.

Obviously if you’re visiting Malta, you’re inevitably going to end up in its capital city. UNESCO describes Valletta as one of the most concentrated historical sites in the world. The entire city is considered a World Heritage Site (ding ding! #3!). Since the Hospitallers were also responsible for the building of it, the architecture echoes much of Mdina.

In 1566, the Grand Master of the Order of Saint John, Jean de Valette, commissioned the building of a fortified city to deepen the Order’s ties to Malta and protect its people from further invaders. He personally laid down the first stone to celebrate his victory after a four month siege by the Ottomans. Outgunned, outmanned, outnumbered, and out-planned (now you have that song stuck in your head, sorry!), the Order of Saint John miraculously held the island, and in battle after battle they pushed the Ottomans back into the sea, now red with their blood. (I’m rushing the history here because I know this article is bursting at the seams with it, but seriously, how cool is that story?) Although Jean de Valette didn’t live to see his city fully completed, he remains there to this day, buried in St. John’s Co-Cathedral along with several other Grand Masters (but we will act like that is not creepy).

Pro tip: The ferry from Sliema arrives at the lower dock of Valletta. If you travel with someone who isn’t a complete sadist, there is a lift you can take to the upper levels of Valletta, so you don’t have to walk up the enormous hills to get up there. I was not so lucky.

St. John’s Co-Cathedral

Much of Maltese culture centers on religion, and churches are plentiful in Valletta, as well as across all of Malta.

St. John’s is a good a place as any to start when visiting, and inside is a bonus for any art lover- a massive, spectacular Caravaggio that takes up basically an entire wall. The Beheading of St. John the Baptist is the artist’s largest work, and the only one he actually signed. The room it is displayed in is lined with other gorgeous pieces, but for obvious reasons, Caravaggio’s masterpiece is the standout. That’s not to say the rest of the Co-Cathedral isn’t just as incredible. Even the marble tombstones where prominent knights are buried are intricately carved.

Entrance to the Co-Cathedral costs €10, but a lot of the other churches around the city are free to visit.

An entire wall worth of beheading.

(Bonus- the Cathedral is the centerpiece of a lively square with restaurants, music, and plenty of gelato shops. One of my favorite moments during my first trip here was simply sitting on the steps enjoying an enormous chocolate gelato cone and people watching.)

Upper Barraka Gardens

The Baroque garden of your dreams

The Upper Barraka Gardens are high up in the hills towering over the lower end of Valletta, but the view is worth the sore calves. You can see the entire harbor from the walls of the garden, plus if you get there in time to get a good view, you’ll be able to watch the cannons go off at noon and 4pm. This tradition harkens back to the time when these cannons would welcome returning naval vessels, but now it’s purely ceremonial, and a lot of fun. Another bonus point? It is also free!

World War II history buffs should head down into the Lascaris War Rooms after watching the ceremony. These rooms were the site of the fighter control rooms where wartime operations against the Germans were planned.

Tick tick boom

Museums
Malta’s contributions to World War II were integral to British operations, and visiting the National War Museum is another great way to learn about how this island helped win the war. The museum is housed in Fort St. Elmo, built in the 1500s by the Order of St. John, but the museum itself specializes in WWII memorabilia.

The National Museum of Archaeology also focuses on Malta’s unique history, albeit much earlier than WWII. It’s filled with statues and artifacts from antiquity, and its prehistoric collection is unmatched. One of the most amazing things about this collection is the scope of what it holds. From Neolithic artifacts, to an Egyptian pendant, to beautifully preserved Roman statues, the museum spans most of human history.

Admission to this museum can be grouped with admission to other museums or historical sites around the country. Prices depend on when you go and what you see. Check out updated prices here.

The Blue Lagoon

WOWZA. Literally that’s the word that comes to mind when I think about visiting the Blue Lagoon.

Located on Comino Island, this lagoon offers impossibly blue water (hence the name, duh!), gorgeous views, and a chill party scene. Boats to the island leave every day from Sliema’s docks. You can book online through major tour sites or simply have dinner in Sliema and approach one of the many ticket counters lining the waterfront to book for the next day.

We took a boat that looked like a pirate ship there, because apparently my group watched Pirates of the Caribbean one too many times. The large tour boats are about an hour ride, and not great for people who get sea sick (a.k.a. me). I will admit, though, that the destination is worth any sickness.

Once your boat docks in the Blue Lagoon, you step foot onto the banks and are greeted with stalls selling alcoholic drinks in pineapples and a scene straight out of a movie. Depending on your boat and how long you have here, you can spend the entire day hiking around the rocky outcroppings or swimming in the turquoise waters (just a warning- the ocean can be very chilly, especially in early summer). Stalls offer drinks, souvenirs, and food– though most tour boats will offer unlimited drinks and lunch as part of your ticket price. We paid €25 each for our boat ride, all-you-can-drink-and-puke drinks, lunch with snacks, and a beautiful cruise along the shores of Malta.

If you indulge in one thing while visiting Malta, let this be it. Just be sure to bring your Dramamine.

Pro Tip: If you walk up to the sellers instead of booking online, you can usually get a lower price. This also gives you the option to look at each boat, as the boats vary drastically without much difference in price. Our ticket was the same cost as the packed ferries we saw go by, and we had less people, a better boat, and more time on the island.

Yo ho ho and a pineapple filled with rum!

Food and Drink

The food in Malta has been heavily influenced by its long history of conquest, and popular dishes hint at Greek, Italian, and Arabic cuisine. Try the rabbit (I’m saying this again to convince you), indulge in the pasta, and don’t forget to grab a pastizzi from the local bakery on your morning walk! Maltese wines, although less recognized around the world, are certainly worth a sip or two (or a bottle or two, who are we kidding), and the island boasts 2 indigenous grape varieties.

The island is littered with olive trees, and the olive oil I bought from a small stand along the waterfront in Marsakloxx was the best I’ve ever tasted. I was so sad to use the last of it. If you want to bring home a souvenir, a bottle of olive oil is the perfect choice!

Honorable Mention:

Gozo

The Cliffs of Despair! (Just kidding, these are the sea cliffs surrounding Gozo).

It would be a mistake to visit Malta and not explore Gozo. When you’re checking out the Ġgantija Temples, be sure to stick around and tour the rest of the island. The streets are impeccably kept and the houses are beautiful. The island is home to a lot of natural wonders as well, including Fungus Rock and some really cool salt flats.

Popeyes Village
This is a weird one. In the late 1980s, Robin Williams filmed the live-action Popeye movie on Malta, complete with a very detailed set. When the movie was done, the set remained, and was turned into an amusement part of sorts for families and Robin Williams enthusiasts to visit.

Blue Grotto
Malta is bursting at the seams with geological formations, and the Blue Grotto is a great one to visit. Make sure to check the weather- on the day we went, the waters were too choppy and they had halted boat tours.

Marsaxlokk offers colorful fishing boats and tiny town feels.

Marsaxlokk
If you’ve been researching Malta, you’ve probably seen pictures of a harbor filled with colorful fishing boats. That’s Marsaxlokk, a small fishing village a short trip away from Valletta where you can dine on the freshest seafood around, shop at the stalls set up on street, and people watch to your hearts content. This is where I bought my olive oil, plus a really pretty pair of earrings. Treat yo’self!

Diving
There are several unique places to dive on Malta for the underwater enthusiast including WWII shipwrecks, reefs, caves, and the Blue Hole in Gozo, an upright tube-like underwater structure formed by thousands of years of water and wind erosion.

Sliema

Fine, I didn’t fall on the steps of Valetta, but I left this waterfront with a sore butt.

Since we weren’t in Malta for an extended period of time, we never really got to explore all the cool stuff that Sliema had to offer (too busy trying not to lose my lunch on a pirate ship, unfortunately) but there are plenty of historically significant and exciting things to see in this modern city. The promenade is full of great restaurants, ice cream shops, ancient towers, and Roman baths.

Getting around:

Public Transportation: We always love taking public transportation when visiting a new place, but ran into an interesting problem. The bus just…stopped. They kicked us all off, and told us to wait an hour for the next one. This ended up being a blessing- we just walked along the island instead, but something to be aware of when visiting! It certainly threw us off for a minute.

You can buy different levels of access cards, including a 1, 7, and 12-day Journey card for access to public transportation. They’re available all over the island at different info points. We had no trouble finding a booth to purchase ours. Remember- Malta is part of the EU, so bring your euros!

Traveling by car: You could rent a car here, but the roads are reallllllllly tiny. So tiny that I feared for my life while on a tour bus. You’re better off taking public transportation or hiring cars and leaving the driving to the pros. As we mentioned earlier, Uber and Lyft aren’t available in the country (as of 2022), but taxis can be called. You can also download the app, Bolt, to request rides.

Have you visited Malta? Leave a comment below with more tips, and any location we might have missed!

Budapest: Christmas Markets and Beyond

When envisioning a winter escape to Europe, images of chalet fantasies on the slopes of the Alps or night skies full of the northern lights cover countless guide books. These are beautiful winter destinations, but for a specific span of time, at the very crest of winter, the rest of the continent is putting on a spectacular show, shining like a beacon during the long European nights. One of the brightest gems shining in that winter darkness is Budapest–a contender for the best place we visited (in winter and overall, really) during our whirlwind adventure through Europe’s Christmas celebrations.

Can I move here, please?

Budapest wears its history like a cloak around proud shoulders, and the heart of the city will charm you so thoroughly that you’ll fall in love with the tatters even more than the glistening post-war additions. The crumbling facades are a testament to a long and rich history, and tell the story of Budapest’s past inhabitants almost like a living museum.

We hopped on a cheap flight from Belgium and landed in Budapest in early December ($12 with checked bags! Thanks, RyanAir!). At this point, we had already enjoyed Christmas markets throughout Scotland, Belgium and Estonia, but we were not prepared for just how fantastic Budapest’s market scene truly is. One thing that’s important to remember: the Christmas markets are open air markets, so dress warmly because you’ll want to be out there at night, when the lights are glittering in the Christmas trees and the beer and gluhwein flow freely.  As is true for most of the larger cities, Budapest plays host to a variety of markets (each unique in their own way), and we were lucky enough to visit them all.

Below, I’ve given a quick overview of the main Christmas Market in Budapest:

Pyramids of fun at the Christmas market!

Vörösmarty Square Market is the largest and longest-running market location, opening in November and closing January 1st (in a pre-Covid world- who knows what the schedule will be this year, but we’ll try to update this once we know for sure!). The market stalls on the outer ring sell homemade items, both traditional and modern, from local artists. The inner section is made up of food stalls, the scent of which permeates the surrounding area, making your mouth water the second you get close to the square. We ended up saving a lot of money by just grabbing dinner from the stalls most nights.

St. Stephen’s Basilica Market is a bit smaller than the market at Vörösmarty Square, but it’s where you can really get a feel for a lot of Hungarian Christmas traditions. There’s an ice skating rink, entertainment every night (both traditional and modern), and a glorious light show on the Basilica’s facade. 

Fashion Street (Deák Ferenc) also hosts a smaller scattering of market stalls and Christmas tree installations. While it’s definitely not on the scale of the Basilica or Vorosmarty Square markets, the Fashion Street market is one that you’ll wander into by accident- it serves as a great pathway between the two bigger markets. 

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Decisions, decisions at Vörösmarty Square .

Christmas markets around every corner!

There are lots of other markets scattered throughout the city. You could spend an entire day walking around Budapest finding little pocket markets, each one unique. Plus, with different performers and surprises scheduled each night, no two visits to the same market will be similar.

There are a ton of other things to see and do in Budapest besides stuffing your face at the Christmas markets. The tourist attractions vary from towering churches, underground caves and museums, all hugging the Danube River, which is, as promised in the song, gorgeously blue. Just remember to dress warmly if you’re traveling in winter!

Top Sights in Budapest (regardless of the season):

The Chain Bridge: The city is actually split in two by the river, with Buda on one side and Pest on the other. They are joined by bridges stretching across the water, the most famous of which is the Chain Bridge. It was the first bridge to connect Buda and Pest. Originally built in 1849, it was bombed during World War II and rebuilt/reopened exactly a hundred years later. There are now a handful of bridges crossing the Danube, but the Chain Bridge was the first, and was a key factor in uniting Buda and Pest and allowing the Hungarian capital to grow into what it is today. 

One day, I’ll be rich enough to afford my own guard lions.

Fisherman’s Bastion: Located in the Buda Castle district, the Fisherman’s Bastion offers up some of the best views of the city. Opened to the public in 1905, the Bastion was originally built as an extra line of defense for Buda Castle, and the fisherman’s guild from the village below were charged with this responsibility (hence the name!). Entrance is free, there’s a little cafe where you can stop and eat, and the building looks like  a fairytale. 

Half fort, half fairytale.

Buda Castle: Be sure when visiting Buda Castle to ride the funicular – a strange, outdoor elevator that chugs along vertically to the hilltop. It’s a 10-minute (ish) trip, but worth every second. After your ride, step out into the Buda Castle Quarter. Head into the castle to enjoy the History Museum, Hungarian National Gallery, and even an underground Labyrinth (plus tons more to see and do- check out all the ticketing and tour info here).  

Up, up, and away!

Matthias Church: Just past Fisherman’s Bastion, within the complex of Buda Castle, you will find Matthias Church. As a lover of history, this site was heaven. Originally believed to be built in 1015, rebuilt after a Mongol invasion in the 1200s, and then repurposed, reconstructed, or added to over the following centuries, the church’s walls have held some of the most important moments in Hungarian history. The church now serves as not just a place of worship, but an art museum and concert venue as well. 

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Matthias Church, inside and out.

Széchenyi Thermal Baths: Since the Romans settled in Budapest, thermal baths have been a favorite pastime of the city residents. Scattered across the city are lots of options for taking a dip, but the most popular is without a doubt the Széchenyi Thermal Baths, a huge complex housed in a Neo-Baroque palace. Spend some time relaxing in the warm waters, or take advantage of their other services like mud baths and medicinal massages. Check out the prices and book a visit here– a perfect activity for winter travel!

Photo courtesy of Széchenyi Thermal Baths

Holocaust Memorial Center: The permanent exhibition in the Center is one of the most profound and educational I have ever encountered. The modern ascetic of the exhibit stands in stark contrast to the actual contents of it, which displays pictures, informational texts, and original documents detailing the rise of Nazism in Budapest and the harrowing experience of the city’s Jewish and Roma population. The museum doesn’t flinch away from the role Budapest’s own citizens played, and I found it to be a brave, unrelenting mirror into the human condition. I would urge anyone to visit this place and learn about this part of history this way- it was honestly the standout experience of this trip. 

Shoes on the Danube: If museums aren’t your thing, but you still want to find a way to learn about and honor those whose lives were taken during WWII, make your way along the promenade on the Pest side of the Danube where you’ll find this permanent art installation. It won’t have the same effect as visiting the museum, but the sight of men’s, women’s, and children’s shoes abandoned on the river bank will certainly leave its mark. 

Wrap-Up, and Final Travel Tips:

What to Eat: I don’t think any meal was ever so satisfying as the chicken paprikash I chowed down on during our first meal in chilly Budapest. Although we mainly ate our meals from the vendors at the Christmas markets, we did luck into 2 fantastic lunches. Our first meal was at a tiny restaurant on the Pest side called Patkos, where besides the chicken paprikash, we ate steak tartare and a beef stew. 

The second lunch was a little more swanky, but not more expensive! We ducked into a hotel restaurant on the Buda side (St. George Restaurant), and enjoyed a lunch special and a bottle of wine that we are still talking about years later- I’ve included it in the pics below in case you want to hunt down a bottle. Plus, check out the chairs we got to sit in while dining like queens!

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Tour Tips: We bought a ticket for the Hop On/Hop Off bus here. We don’t usually use these tourist transports, since they can get pricey, but in the middle of winter it was nice to be able to hop on a bus instead of walking. It also came with free tickets for their boat tour, and we took advantage by going at night and seeing the city all lit up from the Danube. 

When you take the tour bus, climbing up to the Liberty Statue isn’t so bad! Just don’t let your travel buddy bully you into climbing down.

Where to Stay: There are lots of beautiful, boutique hotels to stay while here. We stayed in an apartment rented out by Budapest Holidays Residence. They manage various locations throughout the city and were cheap and easy to use ($125 total for 3 nights!). However, when we got stranded in Budapest an extra night (damn you, Paris protests!), we did splurge on a hotel room with breakfast. Even at the last minute, it was easy to find somewhere to stay.

Have a location or tip that I missed? Drop a comment below to share your expertise so we can all get out there and explore! As always, thank you for every like, share, and comment!

GUEST POST: A Trip to Kyoto by Zachary DeJesus

If you had a million dollars to go anywhere in the world, where would you go? When travel restrictions are lifted, what is the first country you want to go to? Out of all the countries you have visited, which is your favorite? These are just some of the questions my friends and family have asked me since I started traveling. For me, the answer is always the same, Japan, and more specifically, Kyoto. 

Kyoto is often overlooked by other tourists for Japan’s capital city, Tokyo. Tokyo is a metropolis that has much more to offer in terms of world class nightlife, restaurants, and shopping than Kyoto. All of those are, oddly enough, the exact reason I chose not to go. That’s not to say I will never go to Tokyo, I simply wanted to go to the traditional Japan that I saw in movies, explored in video games, and read about in books. I wanted to explore shrines, gawk at pagodas, and wander through centuries old alleyways while eating onigiri from a brand new 711. Kyoto is that Japan.

I had the opportunity to take my first solo trip, without knowing a lick of Japanese, on Christmas Day in 2017. The flight was a grueling 17 hours from New York to San Fran, and then finally to Osaka. The JR Haruka Express, which roughly costs $25, leaves from the airport, and gets you to the heart of Kyoto in just over an hour. Accommodation in Kyoto is relatively cheap, with hostels ranging from $10 to $30 a night for a dorm or capsule, or you can opt for a traditional Ryokan if it fits your budget. Shortly after my arrival I gulped down a beer at the hostel bar, ate a fried chicken sandwich, and crawled into my pod in a room with 35 other people for a well-deserved slumber. The next five days were jam packed with visiting sites and adventuring through the city. These were my favorites:

Fushimi Inari-Taisha (Google pin here): The famed Shinto shrine of nearly a thousand torii gates dedicated to the god of agriculture and prosperity. It is open 24 hours a day, is completely free, and is a five-minute walk from the train station of the same name. I recommend getting there as early as possible to avoid crowds. I was jet-lagged and fortunate enough to get there at five in the morning and had the shrine to myself. I was followed up the foggy mountain by a cat who managed to bob and weave gracefully through the looming shadows of the gates, while a group of crows continuously cawed in the distance. It was truly an eerie experience. By the time I was coming down about two hours later crowds were already starting to roll in.

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Day and night at Fushimi Inari-Taisha

Kinkaku-ji (Google pin here): Otherwise known as The Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji is a world heritage site and an absolute treasure. The actual pavilion has burned down and been rebuilt several times since the 1400’s. The gardens and surrounding areas are truly serene and worth the $4 entry fee, even though the actual building is closed off to the public. Take your time to really soak in the relaxing atmosphere here, and before you leave the premises stop in at the Visitor’s Tea House for a traditional tea ceremony. Matcha isn’t particularly my cup of tea, but the experience was worth it. 

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Feeling golden!

Gion/Higashiyama (Google pin here): Gion is the old entertainment district of Kyoto and home to the Geisha. If you’re lucky enough, you may be able to spot one walking through the area, but it is quite rare. I would recommend learning the subtle differences between Geisha (Geiko in Kyoto) and Maiko, who are their apprentices, if you are planning on ‘Geisha Hunting’. This area of Kyoto is also home to Kiyomizu-dera, a gigantic Buddhist temple that sits on top of the mountain overlooking the entire city, as well as the Yasaka Pagoda, and Ginkaku-ji, or the Silver Pavilion. Whereas Fushimi Inari and Kinkaku-ji were among my favorite sites, Gion and Higashiyama were my favorite neighborhoods to explore. Pop into the shops, try black sesame ice cream, eat udon, and get lost here- you won’t regret it.

Arashiyama (Google pin here): If you’re reading this, then you’ve probably seen the pictures of this infamous place somewhere on social media– the ones of the bamboo forests shooting up towards the heavens with people in traditional Japanese garb. I would love to know how those people got those photos, because this place is absolutely packed. Aside from the crowds, the park is truly remarkable and worth a visit. There are also several shrines and temples in and around the park that offer seclusion if the swarms of people looking for the perfect shot are making you anxious. Aside from the bamboo forest you can stroll over the bridge that crosses the Oi River, and hike up to the Iwatayama Monkey Park, where you can purchase food to feed the monkeys that inhabit the area. They can be quite aggressive when it comes to food, so be on your toes!

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Osaka (Google pin here): Okay, so it isn’t Kyoto, but if you’re going to Kyoto, you’re most likely flying into and out of Osaka, so why not get a little bit of city life in for the day? You can catch the Shinkansen Bullet Train at the Central Station and be in Osaka in just 12 minutes! This is typically an hour bus ride, or about 45 minutes via the JR line. During the day I walked the grounds of Osaka Castle and walked around the pre-war district of Shinsekai, which up until recently was one of Japan’s most dangerous neighborhoods. Although this trip was mostly low budget for me, I decided to splurge on a Kobe Beef dinner at a high-end restaurant. Unfortunately for me, the restaurant was fully booked. Thankfully, the host was more than kind enough to walk me to another restaurant that dished out melt-in-your-mouth steaks with beautiful marbling. I decided to walk dinner off with a stroll through Dotonbori, which is the theater and entertainment district that lines the canal. I would compare Dotonbori at night with the likes of Times Square, if Times Square had a canal flowing directly through it. Both sides of the canal were lined with vendors selling trinkets, and easy grab-and-go food like Okonomiyaki and Takoyaki, which are Japanese savory pancakes and fried octopus balls, respectively. Every now and again a boat cruise would pass by with tourists looking up and snapping selfies with the backdrop of the Glico man, an Osakan icon. I finished the night off devouring pork gyoza on the Shinkansen back to Kyoto. It was indeed a perfect day trip.

In hindsight, I wish I had more time to explore Osaka, and the truth of the matter is, I did. I had set aside two full days to explore the city, but I loved Kyoto so much that I cancelled my plans and opted to explore Osaka in less than 12 hours, and immerse myself in the beautifully historic city that is Kyoto.

So where will you find me when the dust of this pandemic has finally settled? Japan- more specifically, Kyoto.

2-Day Road Trip Through Iceland (Winter Edition)

Like most people, seeing the northern lights has long been at the top of my bucket list. I would have gone anywhere in the world that could offer me that view. Luckily, I ended up in Iceland, and got so much more than just those dancing ribbons.

If you want to see the northern lights, you’ll have to embrace the cold and pack your parka. The lights are only visible late-Fall through early-Spring. By going in March, we were able to avoid the summer crowds as well as the summer prices. The days were shorter, but it was worth it to stand beneath the endless stars and swirling auroras.

We opted to rent a car rather than book bus tours across the island, and rented an Airbnb in the suburbs of Reykjavik. We were able to base ourselves there to sleep and shower, but didn’t spend that much time there. Instead, we woke up before dawn and drove out to chase the sunrise. (Note: You could plan to stay a night on the southern coast to save time circling back to Reykjavik, but hotel and Airbnb options are limited in the off-season.).

Sometimes waking up before the sun really pays off.

*Pro Tip: If you are traveling by car, you must have a credit card with a pin, since the gas stations are unmanned and only accept pin cards. You will definitely need to refuel during your trip, as a lot of these sights take a while to get to. American credit cards with pins are sometimes not accepted, so take a debit card as a back-up.*

If you’re traveling to Iceland during the winter months, be sure to keep an eye on the weather and traffic reports. The roads tend to close due to inclement weather, and some of the stops that might be on your to-do list will be unreachable. Unfortunately, that’s just the way the glacier crumbles in Iceland, but don’t get discouraged if this happens! There is so much to see here that even if you miss out on some, you’ll still have a full trip. Plus, you’ll have an excuse to go back!

Driving through the southern coast of Iceland is incredible. There’s a definite moment when you feel like you’ve traveled Beyond The Wall, and a lot of the big stops will be familiar from movies and TV shows. You could easily extend this trip to see more of the famous “ring road” (the road that circles around the island), but the northern coast is hit hard by winter storms. Plan to pack plenty of snacks and food for your drive. Restaurants are few and far-between, plus you’ll have more time to see the sights!

Arrival Night

The Northern Lights (Google pin here)

If you don’t have a fancy camera and tripod, you probably aren’t going to get that Insta-worthy northern lights picture, but that doesn’t make the viewing experience any less incredible. Let’s live in the moment, shall we? We were lucky enough to get a beautiful showing on our first night (we even saw some on the drive from the airport!), but the key to seeing the lights in all their glory is to know exactly where to go. About 2 hours east of the airport (an hour from downtown Reykjavik) is Thingvellir National Park, a perfect dark sky spot to catch a glimpse of the northern lights. We drove out along Highway 36, just past the Hakið Visitor Center, and simply pulled off the side of the road when we saw a good spot. The pin above is where we stopped to have a view of the lights over Lake Thingvallavatn. Pro tip: you will pass numerous pull-offs where tour buses will be stopped. If you want a private showing of the lights, keep driving further into the park to find you own area.

To guarantee the best showing, access the aurora forecast here. Remember, you’ll need a clear night with no clouds to see the lights. Forecasts are given 3 days in advance, so keep an eye on it while you are visiting the island. Activity ranges from 0-9, with 9 being the most activity (think dancing lights and beautiful colors like below). Anything under 4 will be a muted green glow.

Photo courtesy of GuidetoIceland.is. We weren’t prepared in our camera game to capture this photo.

Day 1: The Golden Circle (With Hot Springs)

Stop 1: Thingvellir National Park (Google Pin here) 40 minutes from Reykjavik

Bursting with history and geographic wonders, Thingvellir is a great first introduction to the magic of Iceland. The area’s name translates to Assembly Plains, and it was the site of assembly during Iceland’s Commonwealth period. The assembly was started around 930 AD, and Icelandic leaders met there until 1798 (it is actually the oldest democratically elected parliament that still functions to this day).

Make your first stop at Hakið Visitor Center, where you can walk along the North American tectonic plate and see its Eurasian counterpart. You can also swim in the Silfra fissure, created by the breaking apart of these two plates, which widens every year as they gradually move away from each other. It’s not every day you get the chance to swim between continents! Because the water in the fissure travels there underground, it rarely freezes, meaning that you can snorkel and dive here year-round. Read more about the fissure, and the snorkeling/diving rules, here.

Plan to spend a couple hours here walking along the fissure, seeing the frozen waterfalls, and reading about ancient Icelandic culture.

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It’s hard not to fall in love with this place when this is your first stop!

Bring your swimsuit.

Stop 2: Kerið Crater (Google pin here) 35 minutes from Thingvellir.

Along Highway 36 about a half hour from the visitor center is Kerið Crater, a volcanic crater lake that is over 3,000 years old. There is a small entrance fee to enter this area, but the drive here along the lake is worth it. We spent about an hour walking around the crater, and peering down the 180 feet to the bottom.

A nice, red hole for you.

Stop 3: Haukadular Geothermal Field (Google pin here) 40 minutes from Kerio Crater.

I love visiting geysers. It’s so funny to watch the crowd as the excitement grows and everyone is anticipating the next burst of water, only to have them all jump, or miss that perfect geyser boomerang for their Instagram story and have to wait all over again.  In this geothermal field there are 2 geysers, Geysir and Strokkur. (We actually get the word geyser from the old Norse geysir, which mean ‘rush’.) Geysir holds the record for the largest geyser blast ever recorded, but he’s not exactly Old Faithful, and he’s dormant right now. Strokkur, the kid brother, is more reliable, setting off every 5-10 minutes. Don’t forget to check out the cute store they have at the visitors center! I forgot my hat at the Airbnb that day and it was super cold, so I treated myself to a fancy new one from here. They had beautiful warm socks and sweaters, too.

Thar she blows!!

From here, you can drive an extra 5 minutes further to Gullfloss (Google pin here). This two-tier waterfall is stunning, and makes for a great stop to break up the driving.

Just don’t opt for the rafting trip.

Stop 4: Secret Lagoon Hot Springs (Google pin here) 30 minutes from Gullfoss, 1 hour and 30 minutes from Reykjavik

No trip to Iceland is complete without visiting some hot springs, and they’re even better after a long day of cold sightseeing. Of course, the most well known of these in the country is the Blue Lagoon, and if you wanted to splurge then by all means, visit there. But if you wanted the same experience at a fraction of the cost, find somewhere else! We soaked in the beautiful Secret Lagoon (the country’s oldest geothermal pool), just down the road from the geysers. It was a lot cheaper (ISK 3000, or $24 USD vs. the Blue Lagoon’s $53), and a lot less crowded (you don’t need reservations!). The springs are open from noon-8pm, so plan to hit this before closing. *Just a note for our first-timers: before you get into the pool, you have to wash in the communal shower- naked. That’s the rule of the club. Some people follow the rule, some don’t, but be prepared to see a lot of skin.

Ah yes, communal bathing. Photo Courtesy of Arctic Adventures (adventures.is)

Day 2: The Southern Coast

The southern coast has some of Iceland’s most spectacular sites, but it will require a full day of driving. The furthest location for this day is 4 hours and 30 minutes from Reykjavik, and that’s without weather delays. (It took us 6 hours due to a storm.) Plan to wake up early (like 5am early), pack the car with plenty of food and water, and keep an eye on the weather. Winds and storms can be dramatic between each valley (sunny in one, angry Elsa-storm in the next one). Gas stations are sparse, so be sure to take advantage of opportunities to top off your tank. We made it a point not to drop below half a tank in case we got stuck in winter weather.

Stop 1: Skógafoss (Google pin here) 2 hours from Reykjavik

This waterfall is easy to reach (no hiking), and if you’re there in the summer you can actually climb up some steps on the side and catch the view from the top! The stairs are a bit too hazardous in the winter to do this, but the view from the front is just as nice. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you might recognize the waterfall as (SPOILERS!) Jon and his Auntie Danaerys’ make out spot in the last season. (Here’s a list of all the locations the show filmed in Iceland during its 8 season run.). You will also pass Seljalandsfoss on the way here. You can get a great view of it from the road, so we skipped it to save time.

No dragons or long lost princes, but still pretty sweet.

Stop 2: The plane wreck at Sólheimasandur (Google pin here) 10 minutes from Skógafoss

This was a really cool experience. In 1973 a US Navy plane crashed on the beach at Sólheimasandur after running out of gas (don’t worry- everyone survived). Instead of moving the wreckage off the beach, the Icelandic government just….left it there. It’s about a 2 mile walk from the carpark to the plane, but it’s totally flat and easy. (There’s also a shuttle if you wanted to save some time.)  I felt like I was on the surface of Mars walking to this plane. You’ll be traveling along a black sand beach, this one a little less magnificent than Reynisfjara visually (we’ll get to that later), but definitely an atmospheric wonder. You can climb in and on top of the plane for some great pictures, as well.

Plan to do this one early in case the weather turns in the afternoon. This never closes, so it is also a great place for a night hike to watch the northern lights over the plane.

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Taking a spacewalk

Stop 3: Vatnajökull National Park (Google pin here) 2 hours from Sólheimasandur

Vatnajökull National Park is a massive national park encompassing the southeastern edge of Iceland (Think, Yellowstone big…but with a giant glacier). Guides say that to truly enjoy all that this area has to offer, you need to spend a few days here, but if you wanted to make a quick stop, the 5-mile round trip hike to Svartifoss would definitely be the way to go. Svartifoss is a towering, basalt-backed waterfall just a short hike from the car park, whose name means “Black Falls”. Its water comes from the Skaftafellsjökull glacier, and the basalt columns were created by lava cooling rapidly. There are a lot of basalt formations throughout Iceland, and they even served as inspiration for Iceland’s biggest church, Hallgrímskirkja. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can keep going to the Skaftafellsjökull glacier (but please don’t hike on it without a guide- glaciers can be dangerous and the proper equipment and knowledge is an absolute necessity!). This location also serves as a great base for hiking Iceland’s tallest mountain, Hvannadalshnjúkur. Here is a list of all the hiking trails within the park. While adventuring into the park is difficult during the short winter days, the drive to this location rewards you with sweeping views of the glacier dipping down into the valley (you can even walk up to the glacier from the car park pinned above!).

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A perfect sunny day in the park!

Stop 4: Glacier Lagoon (Google pin here) 40 minutes from Vatnajökull National Park, 4 hours and 30 minutes from Reykjavik (This is the furthest location of the day)

What a sight! It’s hard to choose a favorite spot in Iceland, but this one is definitely near the top of my list. The water is a unique blue color, caused by a mixture of glacial and sea water. The ice in this lagoon can be up to 1000 years old, broken away from the main glacier and swept into the water, where the pieces slowly melt down. Occasionally, if you’re visiting the mouth of the lagoon, you can see seals swimming around trying to catch a good meal in the clear blue waters. For you insta-explorers, all of my coolest pictures are from here. It’s just visually stunning in every way. There is a small cafe located in the car park where you can pick up a coffee or a (very expensive) Icelandic snack. In the summer, you can take a boat tour around the lagoon, but in the winter, you’re rewarded with Beyond the Wall-vibes and no crowds.

Your two favorite travelers in our kingdom of ice!

Stop 5: Diamond Beach (Google pin here) 5 minute drive from the lagoon

A beach covered in huge chunks of ice, twinkling in the winter sun and moving through the surf as if weightless. (Remember the poor grandma that got swept out to sea because of a photo op gone wrong? That happened here!) This beach is close to the Glacier Lagoon, and the chunks of ice are actually pieces that have been swept out to sea from the lagoon, polished up by the seawater, and pulled back to shore by the current. This is another one of those places that makes for an excellent Instagram post, with the bright ice standing out against the black sand of the beach. This is a good place to eat lunch in the car or stretch your legs on the beach.

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Shine bright like a diamond!

Stop 6: Reynisfjara (Google pin here) 2 hours and 20 minutes from Diamond Beach

Can I just admit that I thought every site was a standout, so that I don’t keep saying the same thing about each one? Because this place was phenomenal. The black sand beach at Reynisfjara is iconic. I’ve seen it in movies, TV shows, commercials. Visually, as someone who lives in black on black on black, it was heaven. The sand tinkles in the breeze like wind chimes, there are towering rocks sticking out of the surf, and the whole otherworldly place feels like you’re in the middle of some fantasy movie. And maybe you are! Legend says the basalt columns lining the beach are trolls caught out in the sunlight after a night of luring ships to their demise. There is a nice restaurant here to grab lunch/dinner if you forgot to bring food (the Icelandic soup was divine after our parka-bound beach walk).

From here, we headed back to Reykjavik for our final night. Remember, the days are shorter in the winter time, and it’s best to try to plan to have most driving done before it gets too dark (streetlights are not a thing on most of the roads).

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If I were a beach, I would be this beach.

Bonus Round: Icelandic Horses

Don’t forget to stop and say hi to the horses! You see them quite often from the road. They’re very friendly and eager to say hello (and serve some Blue Steel looks for your pictures), even if they do like to nibble your clothes a little bit. You can touch them but stay outside the fence and please don’t feed them!

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Hey guys, why the long face?

Iceland is expensive, and there’s really no way around that. You’re going to be throwing out some serious cash. However, most of these stops are free of charge! So meals, car, and accommodations can be your only expenses. There are a few reasons why the island is so expensive: They have a short farming season so a lot of the food has to be imported, raising prices quite a bit, the exchange rate is painful if you’re working with the US dollar, and finally, they have some fairly high tax rates. If you’re trying to do this trip on a budget, I would do a big shop at the start of your trip and avoid eating out to save money. We literally ate sandwiches in our car for 90% of the weekend (and they were delicious!).

Overall, Iceland was everything I hoped it would be and more. It’s a popular destination, but one that is an absolute must-see. I had no other hope for this trip besides seeing the Northern Lights, but I quickly learned that this place is so much more than what’s dancing in the sky. Go a little bit off the beaten path and try and see some of the more terrestrial sights. Your eyes will thank you!

Other points of interest:

Fjaðrárgljúfur (Google pin here): A deep, river canyon with hiking trails that you will pass on the way to Vatnajökull National Park.

Seljavallalaug Swimming Pool (Google pin here): A 10 meter-wide, hot springs pool from 1928.

Grótta, Norðurströnd Walking Path (Google pin here): An easy place to see the northern lights without leaving Reykjavik. While you still will have city lights disrupting the view, you can catch the lights over the dark ocean.

Have a location or tip that I missed? Drop a comment below to share your expertise so we can all get out there and explore! As always, thank you for every like, share, and comment!

An Ode to Amsterdam

Ah, Amsterdam. I always get funny looks when I say it’s my favorite place in the world. From the Red Light District to the famous coffee shops (that don’t sell coffee!) it certainly has a reputation to those who only know the basics. But Amsterdam is so much more than those things. One day, I’ll hit the lotto and buy myself a houseboat, spending the rest of my days parked on the side of an idyllic canal, gently rocking back and forth sipping coffee and people-watching to my heart’s content.

Despite it being a favorite destination for raucous bachelor and bachelorette parties, I think Amsterdam should be enjoyed as a quiet vacation. The city has a stillness and a comfortableness that is ideal for someone who wants to unplug and just exist in a new place. It’s a place of history and literature, art and philosophy. There are things to do and see, and it has lively (and sexually uninhibited) nightlife, but the charm of Amsterdam is its cheerful, easy existence. Sleep in, stroll slowly, and enjoy.

I’ve been to Amsterdam at different times of the year, and each season has its perks. In winter, the city is quiet. The tourists have opted for warmer shores, the days are shorter, and the streets a little emptier. In spring and summer it’s a lively, colorful place, filled with partiers, outdoor diners and drinkers, and a never ending tide of bicycles.

The glory of Amsterdam is the atmosphere. There is a joy permeating the air, no matter the season, a feeling of pride and love for the city from the locals, a feeling of awe and excitement from visitors. This isn’t the place to go to have an adventure. It’s the place to go to have a rest.

One thing you should be adventurous about is the food. Eat at the restaurants, but also stop in to the little shops that have hot food vending machines- a fun novelty experience as well as a delicious meal. Pick something with a completely unfamiliar name and take a bite. Enjoy the most popular pub food in Amsterdam, bitterballen, little fried balls of meat that were crunchy on the outside and soft and delicious on the inside. Enjoy a cone full of freshly made fries, steaming hot and smothered in any sauce you choose.  And don’t forget to end your meal with a stroopwafel, warm and gooey and so, so good.

Check out Greenwoods for a fantastic breakfast!

It’s hard for me to choose my favorite food, my favorite book, my favorite TV show. I like too many of them too much to be that specific. But if you ask me what my favorite place to travel is, I’m always going to say Amsterdam. I’ll always choose to visit here whenever I can, whether it be a budget trip in a cheap hostel or a splurge trip in a nice canal-side apartment. I’ve written poems about it. I’ve read novels specifically because they were set in Amsterdam. I have pictures of it on my wall. I’ve spent hours talking about it. It’s a place, for me, that never stops being magical.  

It’s a place where I can take a deep breath, in and out, and just live.

Of course, there are things to put on your to-do list when visiting Amsterdam. Here’s a few that I would recommend:

A canal tour: Yes, it’s a cheesy touristy thing to do, but there’s no better way to see the whole city than to hop on one of these tour boats and listen to your audio guide discuss the history and architecture of the place.

The Anne Frank House: A somber and humanizing experience that will stay with you long after you leave. Make sure to book tickets well in advance- the tickets sell out quickly and you most likely won’t be able to get a spot the day-of.

The Van Gogh Museum: What can I say about the Van Gogh museum that isn’t obvious? It’s a shrine to one of the greatest artists and minds in history, and walking through the halls of this museum, you’ll find he was so much more than just Starry Night.

The sunflowers are always worth a visit!

Visit a coffee shop: Ok, here’s the deal. The cafés in Amsterdam are just that- cafés. The coffee shops might sell coffee, but their main fare is different variations of THC. It’s an experience that will soon be commonplace as more and more places legalize weed, but it’s still something you should experience if you go there. (But hurry up- soon, only locals will be able to spark up!) Do your research, and take it slow.

Bloemenmarkt: If you’re looking for something that is quintessential Amsterdam, look no further than this floating flower market. If you’re staying in an AirBnB, buying some tulips or sunflowers from the market is a great way to make your place feel more home-y, but you don’t have to buy anything to experience the magic. If you’re there in the winter, you won’t find any fresh tulips, but there are wooden ones to buy as a souvenir!

How to Pack Light Without Actually Packing Light

Confession: I am an over-packer. I believe in being prepared for anything while traveling. Have I worn this dress at all in the 3 years I’ve owned it? No, but let’s bring it anyway just in case I get the urge. Do I need to bring a pair of nice sandals on my hiking/camping trip? Of course! We might stop for a nice dinner on the way home.

In the past, this meant that no matter where I was going, I always checked a bag. I needed that stuff. But my wallet doesn’t always agree. Budget airlines (such as Allegiant, Frontier, Ryanair, and Spirit) love to advertise incredibly cheap tickets. We once flew from Brussels to Budapest for $12 on a budget carrier. But those tickets only stay cheap if you play by their rules. One of their rules? Avoid checking a bag if you can.

A checked bag can cost anywhere from $30 to $60 EACH WAY. American domestic flights have also started charging for checked items, so flying a larger carrier (such as United or Delta) won’t save you. However, most tickets do include a carry-on. Want to save money to spend on that awesome boat tour? Skip the big bag and throw everything into something small.

The thing to remember is, even if you’re only traveling with a carry-on, whether that be a small suitcase or a backpack, you can still fit everything you need (and then some!) with some strategic packing.

Here are some tips that I’ve learned along the way that help me look like I’m packing light, while really still over-packing:

• Roll roll roll. Roll your clothes. I’m sure you’ve seen this advice before, but there’s a reason everyone suggests it. Rolling your clothes makes them small and easily stackable, meaning you can fit more while enjoying a fun game of clothes-tetris while you pack.
• Go monotone. Pack similar colors for everyday wear, this way you can mix-and-match, and use the same shoes. This also cuts down on stress. If everything is mix-and-match, all you really have to do is reach blindly into your bag and pull out any shirt and pants, and you’re good to go.
• Pack your socks and underwear into your shoes. This one might seem a bit odd, but trust me, it works. If you are taking multiple pairs of shoes, especially if they are sneakers or boots, roll up your socks and underwear and shove them into the shoes. You won’t believe how much space this can end up saving. Your shoes are already going into the bag, and it is amazing how much space bulky socks can consume. Shove those babies deep into the far recesses of those cute Allbirds, and you have shoes that won’t get squashed plus more room for cute souvenirs!
• Be careful with fabrics. Not only is the amount of clothes you take important, but the type of clothes you take is also something to consider. Stay away from bulkier fabrics such as wool or fleece, and opt for synthetic-blends that pack down nicely. If you’re going somewhere cold, look for options with down-interiors. Down is a great insulator and won’t take up much room. Fleece-blends are better than pure fleece, which can be hard to roll. This also goes for denim. While those jeans are cute, leggings or jeggings pack way better. Determined to pack the jean jacket and wool sweater? Make that your plane outfit, and keep the lighter clothes in the bag.

Roll, roll, roll your clothes!

• Underwire free bras. This is related to tip 4, but directed at our female travelers. Most stores now will sell soft, well-made bras without any wires in them. They roll up as small as a pair of underwear with no fuss or struggle, and take up way less room than a bra with wires and a full shaped cup. They are comfortable, offer great support, and are the perfect travel companion, especially when you’re trying to keep things light. Here’s my favorite.
• Wear your biggest shoes to the airport. Even if they are your hiking boots, and you won’t be hiking straight from the plane, wearing them instead of your comfy sandals or sneakers will save so much extra space in your bag. I cannot tell you how many times I had to unlace and lace back up my muddy hiking boots at airport security, which was a pain. But not having them in my bag meant I could fit another 2 days worth of clothes in there (at least!), and that was worth the minor inconvenience.
• Packing cubes. Confession: I do not own a packing cube. But I have seen them at work, and they are magical. It blows my mind how much you can fit into a small bag when stuffing it full of packing cubes. It’s the clown car of packing. The only reason I don’t own one is because I apparently enjoy frantically sitting on my suitcase trying close it while cursing the travel gods that I once again forgot to buy some cubes before my trip. You can find them in all sizes, and they even sell compression versions of the cubes to maximize space.
• Take advantage of your personal item. Even if you’re bringing a carry-on, you can still take an additional personal item with you. Check the airline guidelines to make sure you are bringing the biggest one you can! Put a small purse inside a bigger purse to use during your trip, and then use the rest of the space in that big purse for stuff that won’t fit into your carry-on. I usually like to keep any toiletries I’m bringing, along with any electronic devices, in my personal item. This gives you easy access for when you have to take them out going through security. I recently went away for the weekend, and brought a backpack plus a tote bag. The tote was my personal item, and inside it were an extra pair of shoes, a curling iron, my makeup bag, a book to read, plus my cross-body purse. It fit neatly under my seat, and meant that I had everything I needed. 
• Toiletries are international. Something that always trips up travelers who are only bringing a carry-on is the strict liquid allowance for cabin bags. Liquids must be in containers smaller than 3.4 oz, and you can only have a collective quart in your bag. While we all have a favorite shampoo or face wash, a little flexibility here can go a long way. By leaving the toiletries at home, you don’t need to worry about those pesky airport rules. Instead, visit a local drug store at your destination and stock up on cheap alternatives. (Do NOT shop in your arrival airport or hotel- those prices are usually ridiculously high.) Most drug stores overseas are actually quite a bit cheaper than US stores. I’ve picked up face wash in the UK that was half the price as the US option and had the same ingredients. This is also a great opportunity to test out new products!
• All hail the AirBnb. If you don’t like to wear things twice without cleaning them, I get it. But consider searching for the elusive washer/dryer AirBnB booking so that you can wash your stuff in between wears, cutting down on the amount of stuff you have to bring. You can even pack your own detergent in some small carry-on bottles so that you’re prepped and ready to go upon arrival.

The biggest additional tip I can give you about packing using the suggestions above is NOT to pack your undies and socks on the bottom of your bag. Roll up your pants and shirts to pack first. I always make the mistake of rolling up and packing my underwear, bras, and socks first, since those are the easiest things to decide on. Obviously, you’ll need them. The thing is, you’re going to need them EVERY DAY. So they shouldn’t be on the bottom, because then you have to unpack everything, every single morning, in order to get dressed, and you start to resent that small carry-on very quickly.

I try to follow these tips whenever I travel. I spent 4 days away recently with just the backpack you see in this article. I had at least 3 extra outfits in there that I didn’t wear. I absolutely overpacked, but no one could tell!

The Isle of Skye

The Isle of Skye is a dreamscape. Every bend in the road treats your eyes to a new view, some of it the familiar Scottish variety, some of it alien and otherworldly, and all of it completely magical. In a place where two of the most famous stops start with the word “fairy”, would you expect any less?

We arrived in Skye after our northern road trip (read about it here!), and were eager to stock up on food and supplies, and then rest our weary eyes in our AirBnb (£232 total for the weekend- about £77/person.)

Imagine our thrill when we arrived to the cutest little glamping pod you’ll ever see, located on a family farm and complete with a pack of baby goats right outside our door! We took pictures and videos of the kids for a while until one of the family members felt bad enough to come out and bring us a baby goat to pet. Did we squeal like idiots? You bet.

Some of our new friends!

Since the rental car and AirBnb were split three ways and really inexpensive (around £100 each total for the entire weekend), we were able to do some splurging on dinner, so we stopped in at a family run restaurant down the road for dinner and the best sticky toffee pudding I’ve ever had. Then, we stocked up at the local co-op with snacks and some food for future meals (and a few bottles of wine), and went back to our pod, where our host had left some firewood for us to help light up our little cast-iron fire pit. The perfect ending to our first night on Skye.

The next morning, the adventure began. There is no limit to the amazing things you can see in Skye. While we didn’t have the time (or the cooperation of the weather) to see everything, we managed to hit the majority of the famous sights:

• The Fairy Pools- A must see. Located at the base of the rugged Black Cuillin mountain range, these pools stretch down a sloping glen. The blue isn’t quite as startling as you might see in a highly filtered Instagram post, but they’ll still take your breathe away. It was the mountain range that really stood out for me here. Dark and foreboding, and so damn cool. The next time I’m in Skye, #1 on my list is a hike through these black hills. It’s a small hike from the car park up to the pools, so make sure you wear the right shoes- it can get a little muddy!

The Fairy Pools with the Black Cuillin looming above.

• Portree– The largest town in Skye (which isn’t saying much). We stopped here for lunch and walked around, enjoying the views of the colorful town and the clear, still waters. There were rainbows overhead and bagpipe music permeating the air. A fairytale town, and a good place to find some souvenirs if you wanted to take a piece of Skye home with you.
• Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls– For those of you who appreciate a great geological formation, Kilt Rock will not disappoint. Made from towering basalt columns that take on a tartan pattern, Kilt Rock juts out from the cliffside, Mealt Falls flowing down the face of it straight into the ocean below. On a particularly windy day, you might be able to hear a haunting song dance upon the winds. Fairy pipes? The ghost of an old highlander? The wind blowing through the fence at the edge of the cliffside? We’ll never know.

The waters around Portree. Spot the rainbow!

• The Fairy Glen– You will never be able to shut me up about the Fairy Glen. It is literally the most magical place I have ever been to. Whimsical, otherworldly, and with strange hill formations and spiral ground designs (some made by tourists- please don’t do this! There are natural spirals and shapes there already), the place lives up to its name and then some. Entering the glen is like walking through the wardrobe into Narnia- it’s an almost alien place, so different from anything you’ve seen so far in Skye. It was a long and winding road to the glen, way outside of any cell phone reception or sign of modern life. The roads are tiny, the sheep are numerous, and I would literally travel all the back to Skye just to spend another hour wandering around this place.

I really wasn’t kidding. This place is incredible, and we were lucky enough to get some sun to really bring out the beauty of it.

• The Old Man of Storr – Because of our time constraints, we didn’t do the hike all the way up to the Old Man, but had a great view from below. If you’re going here for some great uphill exercise, this is the trail to take (along with hiking a little further to the Quiraing, another incredible landscape caused by an ancient landslip). It’s a bizarre sight- sharp peaks of rock jutting out of the ground. Legend says it’s the thumb of a giant who was laid to rest on the hillside. If you turn your head just right (and squint a little) you can see the profile of a man’s face in the outline of the rocks.
• The night sky– This might sound silly if you’re from the countryside or have done a lot of traveling in remote places, but for this city girl, the night sky was one of the more memorable things about Skye. I had never seen so many stars at once. With all the beauty at ground level, it’s easy to forget to look up!

Looking up!

Finding a place to stay in Skye is easy and can be inexpensive, it all just depends on what kind of place you want to stay in. For us, glamping added to the experience in the best way possible. There was a full bed and a pull-out couch, and the three of us fit easily and comfortably in the small space. Important to note for this trip: this was actually the first one we took together as a threesome. If 3 girls who were basically strangers can share a pod with 1 shower and 1 real bed, I think anyone can make this work. After the first night eating out, we cooked dinner in the pod. There was a small kitchen and some cooking utensils (plus a microwave). We had everything we needed to make this trip inexpensive and unforgettable.

The Road to Skye

One of the best things I’ve ever done was take a road trip from Glasgow to Skye. I was already living in Glasgow, so the flight factor didn’t add into my costs, but even if you have to fly into Scotland before starting your road trip, it’s an incredibly cheap trip without feeling like you’re missing out on any part of the experience.

Bad hair day, great travel day. The three of us at Glen Coe.

Skye is incredible (and you can read all about our trip to Skye here), but the road to Skye was equally as incredible and as much a part of the experience as the isle itself. Renting a car for a long weekend can be pretty inexpensive. Tours can get really pricey, and you can’t always see everything you want to see. Having the freedom to stop and go whenever you please for a minimal price is worth every penny spent on gas. The cost of our rental car was £101, split three ways, for the entire weekend.
Winding your way up slowly from Glasgow, the scenery changes from cityscapes to small towns, until you finally hit the quintessential Scottish countryside. The sights are (mostly) free, the experience is priceless.

Here are the best stops on your way up to Skye:

• Loch Lomond: This will be your first stop, so keep an eye out for the little turnoffs and lookouts that you’ll come to expect from a drive into the highlands. You travel around Loch Lomond for a while, so make more than one stop- every view is different and spectacular. The loch is known for its dark color, and on a calm day the surface looks like obsidian. (The lakebed is made of dark silt, giving the impression of dark water.) About halfway through your loch-side drive, you’ll pass into the northern part of the country. Congrats! You’re officially a highlander now.

The bonnie, bonnie banks of my favorite place in the world. Loch Lomond is one of a kind.

• Glen Coe: Rain or shine, Glen Coe is a must-see, and one of the most famous views in Scotland. Surrounded by Rannoch Moor (see below!), on a clear day, the Three Sisters- Glen Coe’s iconic peaks- are visible across the green, lush glen. But in the rain, the valley comes to life. You might lose a Sister or two to the fog, but in return you get a sprawling green glen teeming with waterfalls and magic. And let’s face it, it’s Scotland. You’re more likely to see Glen Coe in the rain anyway. The human history of the glen itself is tragic, and it’s hard not to feel a sense of reverence as you peer out into the misty expanse.

• Rannoch Moor: The scenery of many a spooky, wild movie scene (you might recognize it from Outlander, or Harry Potter), Rannoch Moor has a bare, haunted ascetic with a cool historical origin story. This is an ancient place, forged by the melting and reforming of glaciers, carved by time itself. It’s a bog, so if you were planning on doing any exploring deep into the moor, be prepared to track a lot of mud back to your car. It will also stand out because in a land of hills and mountains, Rannoch Moor is eerily flat and alien for the most part.

A sunny Glen Coe

• Oban: A must see for lovers of quaint seaside towns, and lovers of scotch. This would be an excellent place to stop for a bite to eat, either in a small little pub, or a nicer seafood restaurant, depending on your budget, and explore a Scottish town. Talk to the locals, take in the sights and smells, and stretch your legs after a long car ride.

• Fort Williams: Another great little town to stop for lunch is Fort William. A little further north than Oban, this town has some useful shops- a perfect place to stop once you’ve remembered all the things you were supposed to pack and forgot, and don’t want to waste your Skye time finding proper hiking socks. (Can you tell I’m speaking from experience? My favorite pair of comfy socks came from Fort Williams, and I always wear them fondly, for both the comfort and the memory.)

• Eilean Dolan: I cannot stress this enough. If you only stop in one place on the way up to Skye, stop here. The castle exterior is one of the most outstanding and quintessential Scottish sights, and the inside gives you an amazing insight into Scottish history. You’ll have to pay to get inside, but it’s worth the splurge. Your instinct might be to skip it, because it’s just before Skye and you’ll probably be eager to get to the isle and start exploring, but I promise it’s worth it, even if you just stop to take in the sight of it and not go inside.

Does it get any more atmospheric than this?

• Literally, the side of the road: Peppered along the side of the road leading up into the northern highlands are little areas where you can park your car and just enjoy the view. Sometimes, there are lochs, sometimes mountains. And sometimes, if you’re lucky, there are highland cows. These iconic gentle giants will tolerate an obscene amount of photos, happily munching on grass and ignoring you completely. Stop and say hello (just don’t get too close and bother them), and relish in this one-of-a-kind Scottish experience.

All hail the hairy coo!

You can do this drive in one long day, or opt for a cheap Airbnb or inn at one of the small towns along the way. We did it in one go, leaving early in the morning and arriving in Skye just as the sun began to set. The cost of the rental car was £101. So for £34 each (plus snacks and lunch), we saw all that I mentioned above (with a bonus stop at Loch Ness on the way home!). Road trips are a classic way of seeing a country, and it’s no different here. It’s the best way to get the most bang for your buck, and this particular road trip was one I would recommend to anyone.