Budapest: Christmas Markets and Beyond

When envisioning a winter escape to Europe, images of chalet fantasies on the slopes of the Alps or night skies full of the northern lights cover countless guide books. These are beautiful winter destinations, but for a specific span of time, at the very crest of winter, the rest of the continent is putting on a spectacular show, shining like a beacon during the long European nights. One of the brightest gems shining in that winter darkness is Budapest–a contender for the best place we visited (in winter and overall, really) during our whirlwind adventure through Europe’s Christmas celebrations.

Can I move here, please?

Budapest wears its history like a cloak around proud shoulders, and the heart of the city will charm you so thoroughly that you’ll fall in love with the tatters even more than the glistening post-war additions. The crumbling facades are a testament to a long and rich history, and tell the story of Budapest’s past inhabitants almost like a living museum.

We hopped on a cheap flight from Belgium and landed in Budapest in early December ($12 with checked bags! Thanks, RyanAir!). At this point, we had already enjoyed Christmas markets throughout Scotland, Belgium and Estonia, but we were not prepared for just how fantastic Budapest’s market scene truly is. One thing that’s important to remember: the Christmas markets are open air markets, so dress warmly because you’ll want to be out there at night, when the lights are glittering in the Christmas trees and the beer and gluhwein flow freely.  As is true for most of the larger cities, Budapest plays host to a variety of markets (each unique in their own way), and we were lucky enough to visit them all.

Below, I’ve given a quick overview of the main Christmas Market in Budapest:

Pyramids of fun at the Christmas market!

Vörösmarty Square Market is the largest and longest-running market location, opening in November and closing January 1st (in a pre-Covid world- who knows what the schedule will be this year, but we’ll try to update this once we know for sure!). The market stalls on the outer ring sell homemade items, both traditional and modern, from local artists. The inner section is made up of food stalls, the scent of which permeates the surrounding area, making your mouth water the second you get close to the square. We ended up saving a lot of money by just grabbing dinner from the stalls most nights.

St. Stephen’s Basilica Market is a bit smaller than the market at Vörösmarty Square, but it’s where you can really get a feel for a lot of Hungarian Christmas traditions. There’s an ice skating rink, entertainment every night (both traditional and modern), and a glorious light show on the Basilica’s facade. 

Fashion Street (Deák Ferenc) also hosts a smaller scattering of market stalls and Christmas tree installations. While it’s definitely not on the scale of the Basilica or Vorosmarty Square markets, the Fashion Street market is one that you’ll wander into by accident- it serves as a great pathway between the two bigger markets. 

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Decisions, decisions at Vörösmarty Square .

Christmas markets around every corner!

There are lots of other markets scattered throughout the city. You could spend an entire day walking around Budapest finding little pocket markets, each one unique. Plus, with different performers and surprises scheduled each night, no two visits to the same market will be similar.

There are a ton of other things to see and do in Budapest besides stuffing your face at the Christmas markets. The tourist attractions vary from towering churches, underground caves and museums, all hugging the Danube River, which is, as promised in the song, gorgeously blue. Just remember to dress warmly if you’re traveling in winter!

Top Sights in Budapest (regardless of the season):

The Chain Bridge: The city is actually split in two by the river, with Buda on one side and Pest on the other. They are joined by bridges stretching across the water, the most famous of which is the Chain Bridge. It was the first bridge to connect Buda and Pest. Originally built in 1849, it was bombed during World War II and rebuilt/reopened exactly a hundred years later. There are now a handful of bridges crossing the Danube, but the Chain Bridge was the first, and was a key factor in uniting Buda and Pest and allowing the Hungarian capital to grow into what it is today. 

One day, I’ll be rich enough to afford my own guard lions.

Fisherman’s Bastion: Located in the Buda Castle district, the Fisherman’s Bastion offers up some of the best views of the city. Opened to the public in 1905, the Bastion was originally built as an extra line of defense for Buda Castle, and the fisherman’s guild from the village below were charged with this responsibility (hence the name!). Entrance is free, there’s a little cafe where you can stop and eat, and the building looks like  a fairytale. 

Half fort, half fairytale.

Buda Castle: Be sure when visiting Buda Castle to ride the funicular – a strange, outdoor elevator that chugs along vertically to the hilltop. It’s a 10-minute (ish) trip, but worth every second. After your ride, step out into the Buda Castle Quarter. Head into the castle to enjoy the History Museum, Hungarian National Gallery, and even an underground Labyrinth (plus tons more to see and do- check out all the ticketing and tour info here).  

Up, up, and away!

Matthias Church: Just past Fisherman’s Bastion, within the complex of Buda Castle, you will find Matthias Church. As a lover of history, this site was heaven. Originally believed to be built in 1015, rebuilt after a Mongol invasion in the 1200s, and then repurposed, reconstructed, or added to over the following centuries, the church’s walls have held some of the most important moments in Hungarian history. The church now serves as not just a place of worship, but an art museum and concert venue as well. 

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Matthias Church, inside and out.

Széchenyi Thermal Baths: Since the Romans settled in Budapest, thermal baths have been a favorite pastime of the city residents. Scattered across the city are lots of options for taking a dip, but the most popular is without a doubt the Széchenyi Thermal Baths, a huge complex housed in a Neo-Baroque palace. Spend some time relaxing in the warm waters, or take advantage of their other services like mud baths and medicinal massages. Check out the prices and book a visit here– a perfect activity for winter travel!

Photo courtesy of Széchenyi Thermal Baths

Holocaust Memorial Center: The permanent exhibition in the Center is one of the most profound and educational I have ever encountered. The modern ascetic of the exhibit stands in stark contrast to the actual contents of it, which displays pictures, informational texts, and original documents detailing the rise of Nazism in Budapest and the harrowing experience of the city’s Jewish and Roma population. The museum doesn’t flinch away from the role Budapest’s own citizens played, and I found it to be a brave, unrelenting mirror into the human condition. I would urge anyone to visit this place and learn about this part of history this way- it was honestly the standout experience of this trip. 

Shoes on the Danube: If museums aren’t your thing, but you still want to find a way to learn about and honor those whose lives were taken during WWII, make your way along the promenade on the Pest side of the Danube where you’ll find this permanent art installation. It won’t have the same effect as visiting the museum, but the sight of men’s, women’s, and children’s shoes abandoned on the river bank will certainly leave its mark. 

Wrap-Up, and Final Travel Tips:

What to Eat: I don’t think any meal was ever so satisfying as the chicken paprikash I chowed down on during our first meal in chilly Budapest. Although we mainly ate our meals from the vendors at the Christmas markets, we did luck into 2 fantastic lunches. Our first meal was at a tiny restaurant on the Pest side called Patkos, where besides the chicken paprikash, we ate steak tartare and a beef stew. 

The second lunch was a little more swanky, but not more expensive! We ducked into a hotel restaurant on the Buda side (St. George Restaurant), and enjoyed a lunch special and a bottle of wine that we are still talking about years later- I’ve included it in the pics below in case you want to hunt down a bottle. Plus, check out the chairs we got to sit in while dining like queens!

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Tour Tips: We bought a ticket for the Hop On/Hop Off bus here. We don’t usually use these tourist transports, since they can get pricey, but in the middle of winter it was nice to be able to hop on a bus instead of walking. It also came with free tickets for their boat tour, and we took advantage by going at night and seeing the city all lit up from the Danube. 

When you take the tour bus, climbing up to the Liberty Statue isn’t so bad! Just don’t let your travel buddy bully you into climbing down.

Where to Stay: There are lots of beautiful, boutique hotels to stay while here. We stayed in an apartment rented out by Budapest Holidays Residence. They manage various locations throughout the city and were cheap and easy to use ($125 total for 3 nights!). However, when we got stranded in Budapest an extra night (damn you, Paris protests!), we did splurge on a hotel room with breakfast. Even at the last minute, it was easy to find somewhere to stay.

Have a location or tip that I missed? Drop a comment below to share your expertise so we can all get out there and explore! As always, thank you for every like, share, and comment!

How to Pack Light Without Actually Packing Light

Confession: I am an over-packer. I believe in being prepared for anything while traveling. Have I worn this dress at all in the 3 years I’ve owned it? No, but let’s bring it anyway just in case I get the urge. Do I need to bring a pair of nice sandals on my hiking/camping trip? Of course! We might stop for a nice dinner on the way home.

In the past, this meant that no matter where I was going, I always checked a bag. I needed that stuff. But my wallet doesn’t always agree. Budget airlines (such as Allegiant, Frontier, Ryanair, and Spirit) love to advertise incredibly cheap tickets. We once flew from Brussels to Budapest for $12 on a budget carrier. But those tickets only stay cheap if you play by their rules. One of their rules? Avoid checking a bag if you can.

A checked bag can cost anywhere from $30 to $60 EACH WAY. American domestic flights have also started charging for checked items, so flying a larger carrier (such as United or Delta) won’t save you. However, most tickets do include a carry-on. Want to save money to spend on that awesome boat tour? Skip the big bag and throw everything into something small.

The thing to remember is, even if you’re only traveling with a carry-on, whether that be a small suitcase or a backpack, you can still fit everything you need (and then some!) with some strategic packing.

Here are some tips that I’ve learned along the way that help me look like I’m packing light, while really still over-packing:

• Roll roll roll. Roll your clothes. I’m sure you’ve seen this advice before, but there’s a reason everyone suggests it. Rolling your clothes makes them small and easily stackable, meaning you can fit more while enjoying a fun game of clothes-tetris while you pack.
• Go monotone. Pack similar colors for everyday wear, this way you can mix-and-match, and use the same shoes. This also cuts down on stress. If everything is mix-and-match, all you really have to do is reach blindly into your bag and pull out any shirt and pants, and you’re good to go.
• Pack your socks and underwear into your shoes. This one might seem a bit odd, but trust me, it works. If you are taking multiple pairs of shoes, especially if they are sneakers or boots, roll up your socks and underwear and shove them into the shoes. You won’t believe how much space this can end up saving. Your shoes are already going into the bag, and it is amazing how much space bulky socks can consume. Shove those babies deep into the far recesses of those cute Allbirds, and you have shoes that won’t get squashed plus more room for cute souvenirs!
• Be careful with fabrics. Not only is the amount of clothes you take important, but the type of clothes you take is also something to consider. Stay away from bulkier fabrics such as wool or fleece, and opt for synthetic-blends that pack down nicely. If you’re going somewhere cold, look for options with down-interiors. Down is a great insulator and won’t take up much room. Fleece-blends are better than pure fleece, which can be hard to roll. This also goes for denim. While those jeans are cute, leggings or jeggings pack way better. Determined to pack the jean jacket and wool sweater? Make that your plane outfit, and keep the lighter clothes in the bag.

Roll, roll, roll your clothes!

• Underwire free bras. This is related to tip 4, but directed at our female travelers. Most stores now will sell soft, well-made bras without any wires in them. They roll up as small as a pair of underwear with no fuss or struggle, and take up way less room than a bra with wires and a full shaped cup. They are comfortable, offer great support, and are the perfect travel companion, especially when you’re trying to keep things light. Here’s my favorite.
• Wear your biggest shoes to the airport. Even if they are your hiking boots, and you won’t be hiking straight from the plane, wearing them instead of your comfy sandals or sneakers will save so much extra space in your bag. I cannot tell you how many times I had to unlace and lace back up my muddy hiking boots at airport security, which was a pain. But not having them in my bag meant I could fit another 2 days worth of clothes in there (at least!), and that was worth the minor inconvenience.
• Packing cubes. Confession: I do not own a packing cube. But I have seen them at work, and they are magical. It blows my mind how much you can fit into a small bag when stuffing it full of packing cubes. It’s the clown car of packing. The only reason I don’t own one is because I apparently enjoy frantically sitting on my suitcase trying close it while cursing the travel gods that I once again forgot to buy some cubes before my trip. You can find them in all sizes, and they even sell compression versions of the cubes to maximize space.
• Take advantage of your personal item. Even if you’re bringing a carry-on, you can still take an additional personal item with you. Check the airline guidelines to make sure you are bringing the biggest one you can! Put a small purse inside a bigger purse to use during your trip, and then use the rest of the space in that big purse for stuff that won’t fit into your carry-on. I usually like to keep any toiletries I’m bringing, along with any electronic devices, in my personal item. This gives you easy access for when you have to take them out going through security. I recently went away for the weekend, and brought a backpack plus a tote bag. The tote was my personal item, and inside it were an extra pair of shoes, a curling iron, my makeup bag, a book to read, plus my cross-body purse. It fit neatly under my seat, and meant that I had everything I needed. 
• Toiletries are international. Something that always trips up travelers who are only bringing a carry-on is the strict liquid allowance for cabin bags. Liquids must be in containers smaller than 3.4 oz, and you can only have a collective quart in your bag. While we all have a favorite shampoo or face wash, a little flexibility here can go a long way. By leaving the toiletries at home, you don’t need to worry about those pesky airport rules. Instead, visit a local drug store at your destination and stock up on cheap alternatives. (Do NOT shop in your arrival airport or hotel- those prices are usually ridiculously high.) Most drug stores overseas are actually quite a bit cheaper than US stores. I’ve picked up face wash in the UK that was half the price as the US option and had the same ingredients. This is also a great opportunity to test out new products!
• All hail the AirBnb. If you don’t like to wear things twice without cleaning them, I get it. But consider searching for the elusive washer/dryer AirBnB booking so that you can wash your stuff in between wears, cutting down on the amount of stuff you have to bring. You can even pack your own detergent in some small carry-on bottles so that you’re prepped and ready to go upon arrival.

The biggest additional tip I can give you about packing using the suggestions above is NOT to pack your undies and socks on the bottom of your bag. Roll up your pants and shirts to pack first. I always make the mistake of rolling up and packing my underwear, bras, and socks first, since those are the easiest things to decide on. Obviously, you’ll need them. The thing is, you’re going to need them EVERY DAY. So they shouldn’t be on the bottom, because then you have to unpack everything, every single morning, in order to get dressed, and you start to resent that small carry-on very quickly.

I try to follow these tips whenever I travel. I spent 4 days away recently with just the backpack you see in this article. I had at least 3 extra outfits in there that I didn’t wear. I absolutely overpacked, but no one could tell!

The Road to Skye

One of the best things I’ve ever done was take a road trip from Glasgow to Skye. I was already living in Glasgow, so the flight factor didn’t add into my costs, but even if you have to fly into Scotland before starting your road trip, it’s an incredibly cheap trip without feeling like you’re missing out on any part of the experience.

Bad hair day, great travel day. The three of us at Glen Coe.

Skye is incredible (and you can read all about our trip to Skye here), but the road to Skye was equally as incredible and as much a part of the experience as the isle itself. Renting a car for a long weekend can be pretty inexpensive. Tours can get really pricey, and you can’t always see everything you want to see. Having the freedom to stop and go whenever you please for a minimal price is worth every penny spent on gas. The cost of our rental car was £101, split three ways, for the entire weekend.
Winding your way up slowly from Glasgow, the scenery changes from cityscapes to small towns, until you finally hit the quintessential Scottish countryside. The sights are (mostly) free, the experience is priceless.

Here are the best stops on your way up to Skye:

• Loch Lomond: This will be your first stop, so keep an eye out for the little turnoffs and lookouts that you’ll come to expect from a drive into the highlands. You travel around Loch Lomond for a while, so make more than one stop- every view is different and spectacular. The loch is known for its dark color, and on a calm day the surface looks like obsidian. (The lakebed is made of dark silt, giving the impression of dark water.) About halfway through your loch-side drive, you’ll pass into the northern part of the country. Congrats! You’re officially a highlander now.

The bonnie, bonnie banks of my favorite place in the world. Loch Lomond is one of a kind.

• Glen Coe: Rain or shine, Glen Coe is a must-see, and one of the most famous views in Scotland. Surrounded by Rannoch Moor (see below!), on a clear day, the Three Sisters- Glen Coe’s iconic peaks- are visible across the green, lush glen. But in the rain, the valley comes to life. You might lose a Sister or two to the fog, but in return you get a sprawling green glen teeming with waterfalls and magic. And let’s face it, it’s Scotland. You’re more likely to see Glen Coe in the rain anyway. The human history of the glen itself is tragic, and it’s hard not to feel a sense of reverence as you peer out into the misty expanse.

• Rannoch Moor: The scenery of many a spooky, wild movie scene (you might recognize it from Outlander, or Harry Potter), Rannoch Moor has a bare, haunted ascetic with a cool historical origin story. This is an ancient place, forged by the melting and reforming of glaciers, carved by time itself. It’s a bog, so if you were planning on doing any exploring deep into the moor, be prepared to track a lot of mud back to your car. It will also stand out because in a land of hills and mountains, Rannoch Moor is eerily flat and alien for the most part.

A sunny Glen Coe

• Oban: A must see for lovers of quaint seaside towns, and lovers of scotch. This would be an excellent place to stop for a bite to eat, either in a small little pub, or a nicer seafood restaurant, depending on your budget, and explore a Scottish town. Talk to the locals, take in the sights and smells, and stretch your legs after a long car ride.

• Fort Williams: Another great little town to stop for lunch is Fort William. A little further north than Oban, this town has some useful shops- a perfect place to stop once you’ve remembered all the things you were supposed to pack and forgot, and don’t want to waste your Skye time finding proper hiking socks. (Can you tell I’m speaking from experience? My favorite pair of comfy socks came from Fort Williams, and I always wear them fondly, for both the comfort and the memory.)

• Eilean Dolan: I cannot stress this enough. If you only stop in one place on the way up to Skye, stop here. The castle exterior is one of the most outstanding and quintessential Scottish sights, and the inside gives you an amazing insight into Scottish history. You’ll have to pay to get inside, but it’s worth the splurge. Your instinct might be to skip it, because it’s just before Skye and you’ll probably be eager to get to the isle and start exploring, but I promise it’s worth it, even if you just stop to take in the sight of it and not go inside.

Does it get any more atmospheric than this?

• Literally, the side of the road: Peppered along the side of the road leading up into the northern highlands are little areas where you can park your car and just enjoy the view. Sometimes, there are lochs, sometimes mountains. And sometimes, if you’re lucky, there are highland cows. These iconic gentle giants will tolerate an obscene amount of photos, happily munching on grass and ignoring you completely. Stop and say hello (just don’t get too close and bother them), and relish in this one-of-a-kind Scottish experience.

All hail the hairy coo!

You can do this drive in one long day, or opt for a cheap Airbnb or inn at one of the small towns along the way. We did it in one go, leaving early in the morning and arriving in Skye just as the sun began to set. The cost of the rental car was £101. So for £34 each (plus snacks and lunch), we saw all that I mentioned above (with a bonus stop at Loch Ness on the way home!). Road trips are a classic way of seeing a country, and it’s no different here. It’s the best way to get the most bang for your buck, and this particular road trip was one I would recommend to anyone.

New Providence Island, Bahamas April 2021

Here are a collection of photos taken from our recent dive trip to the Bahamas. A beautiful island with much to offer any traveler! Check out some great stories and tips under Travel Stories and Budget Travel for more information on this amazing adventure.

Photos taken by Nicholas Larghi. Follow his Instagram for more great travel photos https://instagram.com/nlarghi?igshid=1xvr9n6qgkivd

Two beautiful reef sharks off the coast of New Providence

Sea life that can be seen snorkeling off the west coast of New Providence

Endless sunsets. This is the sunset on West Bay Road in late April.

Driving in the Bahamas

Wreck dive with Stuart’s Cove

Very titanic-y

Diver returning to ship on second dive of the day with Stuart’s Cove

Up close and personal on a shark dive

Want sharks? You can’t beat the Bahamas.

Beaches along West Bay Road. The road follows right along the coast with plenty of places to pull off a park. The coast is a mix of sandy areas and rocky shoreline.

A delicious dinner at Traveller’s West restaurant. You can enjoy a mouth-watering meal, some yummy drinks, and a beautiful sunset. Much calmer than the Nassau area.

Our Airbnb building. These vibrant and restored buildings cover the island and make for interesting and fun accommodations.

Ocean view from the Airbnb

My favorite way to capture memories while traveling. Cheaper and lighter than souvenirs, and it makes every moment feel special.

4 Days in the Bahamas on a Budget

Recently, my boyfriend and I did an extended weekend trip to Nassau. We flew in on a Thursday and out on a Sunday, giving us four days on the island (including our travel days). While the trip wasn’t slated as a budget trip (we splurged majorly on a Friday full of diving), we wanted to save as much as we could elsewhere on the adventure so we could continue to go places in the future (no one likes the credit card hangover at the end of a trip).

Two very happy travelers on New Providence Island, Bahamas

The first thing I realized about Nassau is that what I hear from lot of travelers is true– the Bahamas are expensive. And not in that “you might spend a couple dollars more at dinner” expensive, but in the “a dinner for two will be about $100” expensive. Judging by the amount of drool-worthy yachts moored off the coast, maybe most visitors don’t mind these extra costs. But for two frugal adventurers who want to keep on adventuring, some prices came as a shock. Fortunately, I picked up a few tricks and tips for any of my fellow frugalees who want to explore the world, but not have to live off ramen for months to pay for it.

Opt for an AirBnb

This is probably an obvious tip for most seasoned travellers, but I am a solid believer in the Airbnb. Not only is it the most Covid-friendly of accomodations (usually you’re in your own unit with limited interaction with other guests), but you also get the added bonus of supporting a smaller business (we can rage against corporate resorts on a later day) and you get to experience life more as a local. The biggest perk of an Airbnb, though? The kitchen.

View from our Airbnb on the western shore of New Providence Island

Eating out is expensive in the Bahamas. We dined at a lovely restaurant on the western edge of the island. Two dinners, a couple of drinks, and an ocean view came with the hefty total of $110. While the food was delicious and I would do it again (see the photo section for more information on this great restaurant), most adventurers can’t afford that price tag for every meal. That’s where having a kitchen in your residence comes in handy.

As far as prices, we opted for a “mid-range” airbnb. We were located West Bay Street, not far from Chateau Del Mar. About 10 minutes from the airport and 25 minutes from the heart of Nassau, it was the perfect location to access our dive sites and the other points of interest we wanted to hit on the island. For a studio apartment, with a shared pool and an ocean view, we paid $370 for 3 nights. There are cheaper studio options in the center of the island around $280. The cheapest option I found in the heart of Nassau around $250.

Another option for larger groups would be to rent a house. Originally, we planned on going with a larger group, and an entire house (with a pool and ocean view) would’ve been about $700. Split that four or six ways, and you got yourself more space than a hotel room, a kitchen when those midnight munchies kick in, and outdoor space if you hauled over your dive gear (and in case you want to hear the ocean at night, not smell it).

Snorkeling shoreline just down the hill from our Airbnb (about a 3 minute walk). Sunset along West Bay Street, New Providence, Bahamas

To add a bit of perspective, you can get a hotel room (in a budget hotel) for as low as $200. With more fancy amenities and more perks, this can go as high as $800 (or even higher for those super bougie people out there). So while Airbnb may not be the super cheap option it can be elsewhere (looking at you, Malta), having a kitchen will help you cut costs in the long run. As long as you know where to shop, which brings me to point numero duos…

Pick Your Stores Wisely

Picture this… two bleary-eyed divers are scheduled for an 8am dive departure on a Friday morning. They’re hungry, in need of coffee, and will definitely need further sustenance for the day (unless they get eaten by a shark). They pull into the first grocery store they find, only to walk in and find that a loaf of bread is over $5. (That might be an exaggeration. The loaf I saw was $5, but maybe it was super special somehow. As well as all the loaves around it.)

Grocery stores vary drastically on New Providence (the island Nassau is located on for those still struggling with a map). The first store we went into was Solomon’s Fresh Market, located on the northwestern side of the island and one of the first stores those departing the airport will see. Think Fresh Market or Whole Foods and you’ve got a solid mental picture of this store. It’s beautiful and exceptionally organized, but you won’t be saving much money here. However, if you have a food allergy or special diet, this is the place for you.

Option number two we came across later in the day (Solomon has the extra perk of being one of the few stores open before 8am on the west side). Super Value Food Store (super inventive name) can be found closer to Nassau, and it is definitely cheaper in price. Most of the items we picked up were still about 1.5 times what we would pay in the states but only about half of the price of what we found in Solomon’s. What you pay in price, you trade in overall store presentation and food choices. The inside reflects the interior of most budget stores in the US, and those with a special diet might struggle to find choices (though I did see a solid selection of gluten-free choices). But it is cheaper than Solomon’s, so it does speak to the difference in stores one could come across on the island. Just be sure to bring your own bags, or you’ll be spending $5 in beer money for a cute, reusable bag. Groceries are not allowed to leave the store without being in a bag.

My lovely $5 souvenir bag thanks to Super Value

There are other chains and stores (including smaller neighborhood markets in the town), but this was the sampling we experienced. So my advice to the dollar-weary traveler: spend a few extra minutes studying your google maps when selecting a grocery store. A few more miles could end up cutting your bill by $50. Replace eating out a few meals with home-cooked meals in your Airbnb? You can easily save yourself hundreds of dollars at the end of the day. And before you start thinking about those massive bar tabs- alcohol is more expensive, but opting for a local bottle of rum to enjoy on your balcony is always a good option. However, I didn’t think the drinks were too bad (about $10-$15 for a cocktail). So maybe skip the meal and enjoy a mojito in town instead?

I love food as much as the next person, so I always make it a point to eat out at least once everywhere I go. I believe that food is a crucial part of experiencing a place and a culture, however, I don’t always have the budget to eat out for every meal. Cooking allows for you to explore the local lifestyle, maybe test out the odd fruit or vegetable in the store, and keep some money left aside for that extra dive or sailing adventure.

Be Your Own Taxi

I read countless blogs and forums before our trip about the pros and cons of renting a car in the Bahamas. Travelers’ fears ran everywhere from driving on the left side of the road to being scammed by shady rental agencies. Since we weren’t staying in Nassau and had plans on diving and seeing the island, we needed transportation. Nassau has a bus system but it isn’t the best at going everywhere or even following a true schedule (island time is the time). Taxis are expensive if you plan on seeing anything (especially if you get adventurous and make it out somewhere remote like Jaws Beach) and aren’t the most practical if you don’t like being on a schedule (me! me! me!). Sidewalks are a thing of mystery on the island, and the roads are way too narrow to brave a bike.

So, renting a car it is. Even with the higher rental prices (Covid has increased rental prices everywhere), we paid $230 for the four days, had our own transportation, and never had to worry about taxi prices. Our car was the world’s smallest hatchback, fit two people and their giant dive bags, and only used about $15 in gas driving around the entire island for four days (I never figured out how it burned so little gas). We rented through Budget and it was by-far the easiest rental I’ve ever gone through. When leaving the airport on New Providence, you just walk right across the street from departures and the rental car building is in front of you. Walk in, grab your key, use a credit card for rental insurance (check your policy), and BAM! You’re a free agent on the road in under five minutes. Just remember… stay left.

And if you’re concerned about driving, the average speed limit is 35 mph on the island. You have plenty of time to get used to the endless roundabouts and the opposite side of the road. Having a car cuts the expense of a taxi and allows you limitless freedom as you explore this beautiful island.

Our adorable rental car. I wanted to bring it home!

Opt Outside

This one is an easy tip, since you’re in the Bahamas to enjoy the beautiful weather. As most travelers know, outside activities are usually the cheapest when it comes to saving costs and exploring a new place. With a rental car, you can spend an entire day basking in the sun on the western beaches. Jaws Beach was a tropical paradise, full of drifting palms, turquoise water, and sandy coves. The best part? It was completely free.

Jaws Beach, Western Shore of New Providence, Bahamas

New Providence has lots of little beaches that can be explored while keeping the credit card spending low. Opt for the sleepy beaches instead of the ones in the heart of Nassau to get some added privacy and the freedom to enjoy a nice picnic with an oceanfront view. If you’re like me and love the ocean, the diving cannot be beat (See my post on Shark Diving for more information: https://everythinginacarryon.com/2021/05/07/shark-diving-in-the-bahamas-mollie-breese/), but diving comes with a higher price tag. Snorkeling is free (if you have your gear) and easily accessible along West Bay Road and Clifton Bay. We had the added perk of being able to walk to great snorkeling spots straight from our Airbnb. A full day of basking in the sun, enjoying the crystal clear water, and not constantly worrying about how expensive it all is? My kind of day!

Snorkeling off of West Bay Street , New Providence, Bahamas

If none of these options tickle your pickle, there are also free hiking trails available in Bonefish National Park (access a free parking area on Coral Harbour Road). Nassau offers a wealth of free activities, my favorites being a stroll through Parliament Square or the markets on Bay Street. There are other great places on the island to see (such as the Versailles Gardens on Paradise Island or Fort Montagu on New Providence), but these all cost an entrance fee. It’s great to support local businesses or historic associations, so always feel free to stop in and check them out. We paid about $15 a person to visit Clifton Heritage National Park (a historic park featuring beautiful cliffs, gardens, and original establishments from the slavery era), but the focus here is budget-friendly, so do some research into what fits best. I enjoy splurging on activities I know will make a memory, so my big expense was my day of diving.

Conclusion

In the end, the Bahamas can be costly, but a little research and planning make it an affordable destination. If you plan on eating out every day, raging until dawn, and catching those beautiful sailboats to chase the sunset the trip will be more expensive than what many may be used to (especially compared to a cheaper tropical destination such as Mexico). But the islands are gorgeous, the people are some of the friendliest I’ve ever met, and the diving is unreal. Traveling is all about balance, especially if you’re trying to do multiple trips in one year (or one season or one month…). I love cutting loose and enjoying a place without worrying about the cost, but I also love knowing that a little smart planning allows for me to afford that next trip that’s right around the corner!

Price Breakdown (4 days, 3 nights)

• Airbnb: $370
• Car rental: $230
• 4-Dives with Stuart’s Cove (optional) $450 (per person)
• Gas: $15
• First Night Dinner Out: $110
• Groceries: $180
• Entrance to National Park: $15 (per person)
• Alcohol (bottle of wine and a bottle of vodka): $45
• Snorkeling, Beach Bumming, Touring the Island: Free!

Shark Diving in the Bahamas

In April 2021, my boyfriend (the one responsible for these beautiful photos) and I caught a nonstop flight from Miami to Nassau. For those who have never been, Nassau is located on the island of New Providence in The Bahamas. If you fly from Miami, prepare for a long-haul… you’ll be in the air for a grand total of 35 minutes.

We went with one goal in mind– to dive with SHARKS, and Nassau did not disappoint. We booked 4 dives for a Friday, two in the morning and two in the afternoon. In the morning, we dived to around 60 feet on colorful and stunning sea walls with some of the most beautiful coral in the Caribbean. Then that afternoon, we rested up and prepared for the sharks!

For anyone looking to book a dive in the Nassau area, I cannot recommend Stuart’s Cove enough. They’ve been in the dive business since 1977, and their main man, the Stuart of “Stuart’s Cove”, has been part of thousands of dives (including being a diver in “For Your Eyes Only”, for my Bond nerds out there). I’ll throw down their link below for anyone interested in booking a dive, but let me break down why this dive is a must-do for any shark enthusiasts out there.

Our final dive of the day was the infamous feeding dive. At about 40 feet down, we were surrounded by beautiful reef sharks and nurse sharks as they gathered to get the goods from the feeding box (if you look below, you can see the pink box and the dedicated dive master in the middle of the frenzy. Legend does not even began to describe the divers of Stuart’s). The water was a gorgeous mix of turquoise and blue, and our 3mm wetsuits kept us pretty comfortable. But the main attraction was sitting on the ocean floor as we came face-to-face (closer at times) with these often misunderstood creatures.

Strip club rules apply— only they can touch you. And they will. A lot. But you’re not the food here, you’re just the tourist watching the show. We got to sit back and relax (as much as you can in that situation) as sharks bumped up against our shoulders, faces, legs, and pretty much everywhere else. I even had a little nurse chilling on the back of my fin for awhile, and my heart might’ve melted just a bit for these beautiful animals. During different times of the year, you can also catch sight of some hammerheads or tigers (the shark not Tigger), so you can count on us heading back soon!

All in all, it was an amazing day that can only be truly described in the pictures and the lasting traces of adrenaline still racing in my system. Check out the photos below for some trip-spiration and feel free to pop over to the Photo section of the site to see even more.

Dive operators: https://stuartcove.com

Photographer: Nicholas Larghi https://www.instagram.com/nlarghi/